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Friday 21 September 2012

Borneo (sabah) - Kinabatangan River & Sepilok

River safari on the Kinabatangan

The Kinabatangan River was brilliant! We organized a tour through Nature lodge Kinabatangan and were staying in a really nice little hut with an en suite bathroom, quite a different experience to Kutai! There were lots of other tourists there and we were all organized into groups of about 8. We had signed up for the 3 day/2night package and it was perfect. We did two early morning and two afternoon river cruises, two night walks and a jungle trek. To start with it felt a bit like a school trip, about 60 people all piling onto boats and heading off down the river…we were skeptical as to how much wildlife we would see but we were very pleasantly surprised. 
River safari on the Kinabatangan

Basic lodges were very comfortable

Borneo's pygmy elephants - much like other
elephants only...erm a bit smaller!
Within 10 minutes of leaving the jetty we were watching the pygmy elephants eating at the side of the bank….difficult to believe that they’re actually quite rare to see when we had seen them so quickly! Over the three days we also saw a couple of orangutans, lots of macaques, the endemic proboscus monkey, gibbons, the silver leaf monkey, a mangrove snake, a green pit viper, a barred eagle owl, lots of king fishers, 6 species of hornbill, monitor lizards and salt water crocodiles!! Those of you interested in every single species of bird spotted can contact Mike directly and he can show you his bird book with each one lovingly marked offJ you can also discuss his favorite question at the moment which is why scuba diving is considered cool and bird watching isn’t?? Luckily for him we have a lot more scuba diving planned.
Monitor lizard
Barred eagle owl
This orangutan was sucking the juice out of some figs
and dribbling it down his stomach
Blue eared kingfisher with large fish
Jungle trekking is muddy!
Sunrise over the Kinabatangan river
Getting ready for the night jungle walk
Mangrove snake
Orangutan feeding time
After the Kinabatangan we headed up towards Sandakan in order to be able to visit the famous Sepilok Orangutan Santuary. We stayed in ‘Uncle Tans’ hostel which provided us with endless rounds of table tennis and pool as well as the odd game of darts for entertainment. The orangutan sanctuary has feeding times when you can go to the feeding platform and watch the orangutans eating. They are the orangutans that have been rehabilitated and released into the wild so they may or may not decide to show up. Apparently some of the orangutans once released never return and others never fully adapt to being back in the wild and come back often to feed at the centre. We saw just one Orangutan when we visited, and although reasonably close to us he had his back turned most of the time. I think we were  little disappointed not to have seen more orangutans close up at Sepilok, but at the same time just so pleased we’d had such a good prior encounter in Kutai.  
Flying squirrel at Sepilok
Malaysian taxi....bizarre
Enjoying sugar free pancakes
 As well as visiting Sepilock we also decided to go to the proboscus monkey sanctuary which was brilliant!! Again there are fixed times when the monkeys come to feeding platforms to eat and a walkway for the spectators to stand. Only this time the monkeys were everywhere, there must have been about 50 or 60 in total and ignoring all the rules they ran on the spectator walkways and banged their fists on the roof. Watching them all interact together as a big group was brilliant…the big alpha male asserting his position by taking and hoarding all the food (sugar free pancakes) and then the little baby ones timidly approaching the feeding platform before being scared away by one of his bullying brothers. They are such bizarre looking animals that almost everything they did was entertaining to watch. As well as the proboscus monkeys there were also some silver leaf monkeys that enjoyed posing for photos.

Definitely the male proboscus monkey
Silver leaf monkey
Proboscus monkeys were not fazed by tourists




Borneo (Kalimantan) - Nabucco

Nabucco Island 

We left Kutai completely elated at the sightings of the Orangutans but also completely filthy from 4 days in the very humid jungle. We got a shared taxi back to Balikpapan and caught a flight to Berau where we were met from the plane by the driver of our next destination. We had decided that for a (very early) birthday present/treat for me we would go to one of the ‘paradise’ island resorts off the east coast of Borneo in the Palau Derawan Archipeligo. The driver took us to the jetty where we then got a 3 hour speed boat to the Island of Nabucco. It all felt very VIP especially after 4 months of backpacking and having freshly emerged from the jungle! When we arrived there was a welcoming party to greet us and we were given cold flannels before being shown to the bar where a fresh coconut was waiting for each of us. The island itself was tiny and about as close to a Robinson Crusoe type island as you can imagine, you could walk around the whole island in 10 minutes and it was surrounded by turquoise clear water and white sand. We stayed in 1 of about 8 wooden chalets, all with direct sea access so in the morning you could literally go snorkeling from your front steps – pretty amazing! As you can probably tell we have nothing but praise for Nabucco and following along the same trend… the food was amazing too! We had half board and each evening enjoyed a 5 course gourmet meal in the restaurant overlooking the sea. A mixture of Indonesian and European cuisine, the food was very original and delicious!
View from the restaurant
View from the other side of the restaurant....













We stayed for four days, spending 2 days diving and 2 days just enjoying the island – reading, sun bathing, playing board games and snorkeling. Mike also spent a lot of time harassing the resident coconut crab who every time anyone came close would crawl back into his hole. Unrelenting though Mike sat patiently outside the hole every night in the dark waiting for it to come creeping out so that he could shine his torch at it and have yet another  good lookJ



Baby coconut crabs
The adult coconut crab was huge!
The diving was really good, the visibility was the best we’ve had and we saw lots of turtles and a huge school of barracuda amongst many other things.
Banded angel fish
Huge conch 30cm long
Giant school of barracuda in the background
There were turtles everywhere!
All in all a brilliant four days… the only embarrassing thing was that not only were we the only backpackers obviously not used to the luxury…the only people to enquire about discounts… the only people on half board who skipped lunch to save money but we were also the only people who when it came to paying our bill couldn’t because our online banking wouldn’t do international transfers!!!Luckily after numerous telephone calls (on their mobile because ours wouldn’t work!) we managed to get everything sorted but it was a slightly awkward ending to say the least!!

The next couple of days were spent making our way from Kalamantan to Malaysian Borneo and the journey once again took a lot longer than we had anticipated. Our transfer back to the mainland from Nabucco dropped us in Berau, a small port town with nothing really to do other than move on. Arriving too late on the Friday to get the morning busses out however, we stayed one night and booked a flight for the next day to Nunukan. We had been advised that the quickest route to the Malaysian port of Tawau was via Nunukan, which sits on the border of Malaysian and Indonesian Borneo. Apparently if we got the morning flight and headed straight to the port we would be just in time for the ferry. Actually we arrived to find out that we had missed the ferry by about 5 hours and that as the ferries didn’t run on a Sunday we would have to wait until Monday morning! We had thought Berau was small and didn’t have much to offer…Nunukan was much, much smaller and had nothing to offer! We stayed in a very dark and dingy little room, with a window that looked onto an alley. 

Although probably being the shabbiest place we’ve stayed yet, it was very, very cheap and the little old lady who owned it was quite a character! Despite these two pros however, we were both thoroughly fed up that we were going to have to waste a whole day there…and to make matters worse just as we were thinking at least there’s a TV to watch, someone came into our room and removed it! Our despair was short lived however when the same man returned with a much bigger TV for us and we turned it on to find that the newly started London Olympics was on!! We couldn’t believe it and spent the next 48hrs in our dark room watching highlights of the opening ceremony as well as various sporting events – feeling somewhat nostalgic about London! Unfortunately just as we were getting into the mens cycling where team GB were favourites to win, someone changed the satellite channel and we had to watch Indonesia playing badminton but it was the Olympics all the same.

When Monday came round we emerged from our dark cave and caught the ferry to Tawau. Waiting in queue to get our visa we realised we had no money at all to pay for it…luckily not only were we ushered to the front of a ‘foreigners’ queue but also our visa was free anyway so we needn’t have worried – we were already beginning to really like Malaysia J A helpful guy pointed us in the right direction and we were soon on a local bus on the way to Lahad Datu, our first stop. One thing that was noticeably different between Indonesia and Malaysia as soon as we arrived was that everyone spoke English, which made it so easy to travel around. From Lahad Datu we got a transfer to the Kinabatangan River – our first tourist destination, which completed a total of over 4 days travelling from Nabucco! 
Sunset over Nabucco
Sunset again over Nabucco

Borneo (Kalimantan) - Kutai National Park

Our next destination in Indonesia was Kalimantan in southern Borneo and we flew into Balikpapan on the east coast. We then travelled for 3 days on various local buses, staying in random little towns, to get to Kutai National Park. Kalimantan is well off the tourist trail and therefore travelling across it is not easy or quick. Very little to no English is spoken and everywhere you go you are constantly harassed by the locals shouting ‘Hello Mister’. Never the less they were very friendly and happy to help although it was often of limited use due to their minimal english. In Kalimantan you rarely see another tourist outside the main tourist spots and consequently there are no cheap backpacker hostels. Instead you have to stay in overpriced run down businessmen hotels - not ideal!
The boat into the Kutai National Park
Accomodation at Kutai was basic!

On our arrival at Kutai National Park we were met by local guide Mr Supliani’s right hand man who took us by boat down the river to the lodge, deep in the rainforest. The lodge was very basic with generator powered electricity for only a couple of hours a night and a mattress on the floor to sleep on. Kutai is situated almost on the equator so therefore the humidity and temperature was extreme and within minutes we were dripping with sweat and all our belongings had that nice damp clammy feel. For our first ‘rainforest experience’ we walked around after a very laid back Mr Supliani looking for orangutans and saw absolutely nothing! Definitely a man of few words we were slightly bemused by the whole experience, he sauntered through the forest stopping every so often to look up and listen and then without a word just continued on. I say a man of few words…that was until his mobile phone rang…luckily for Mr Supliani he seemed to have excellent reception throughout the rainforest and would readily answer all calls in a raised voice to ensure his caller could hear him clearly.
We were staying right in the jungle

After a couple of hours of strolling around to be honest we were getting pretty bored and started to wonder if maybe 2 nights was going to be a bit too long! The evening walk was better though and we found 2 sets of orangutans building their nests in the trees above us. Although we couldn’t make them out clearly it was exciting to have finally found some and our spirits were lifted for the following days trekking. We got up before dawn and went back to the same spot to see the orangutans waking up. Note to future orangutan seekers – do not stand directly underneath the tree in which the orangutan sleeps because when they wake up, it turns out it’s not raining it’s just nature calling! This time we saw them slightly better as a mother and baby orangutan started munching on fruits above us but they were still very high, maybe 20m up, so we didn’t get an amazing view. 


Searching for orangutans
We were beginning to realise the difficulty of watching truly wild animals and I think were almost starting to wish they were a bit more tame! Unsatisfied with our orangutan experience we decided to extend our stay and were so glad that we did!! The next morning we watched a mother and baby slowly climb down the tree toward us, busying themselves with picking fruit and playing. Both of us spent almost an hour watching them and it sounds cheesy but I have to say...  It was truly magical experience!! :) 
Wild mother orangutan
Mother and baby
Mother and baby again
 In the afternoon Mr Supliani arranged for one of the guides to take us on a trek through the rainforest. On a four hour trek we crossed streams and bogs, all the way cutting our path with a machete. It was so much fun, I felt like Tarzan running through the forest! In reality I wasn’t quite so nimble and several times the tree roots got the better of me but we felt like we’d had a proper ‘jungle experience’ and we even had the leeches (15 in total) to prove it
Katy's legs after 15 leeches - They took
several hours to stop bleeding
Large monitor lizard
Jungle Trekking
The trees were huge in the primary rainforest
This beetle turns into.....
This! (For protection)
These bats were living under a bed
Tarantula
Unidentified bird?
Soldier Ant
Lantern Beetle